When is 4 lower than 1?
Roy January 12th, 2010
During the recent cold snap commentators on the TV and radio advised people to use lower gears when driving on icy roads and particularly when going downhill.
While I realise this makes sense when referring to a bicycle as you can see that first gear is bigger than sixth and therefore going down to sixth is a visual reference rather than a mathematical one, however this visual sense is lost when referring to the gears on a car and therefore far less obvious.
This is possibly an explanation for all the whining gearboxes I heard and for the billowing smoke emanating from exhausts as well as all the cars careering down the hills in the snow.
I have a feeling the clutch replacement specialists will be nearly as busy as the panel beaters over the coming weeks.
- Transport traffic Safety
- Comments(6)
Always tried to get in to a higher gear ( numerically) as possible thus avoiding wheel spin on
acceleration, and going down the gears where possible avoiding sudden braking, It worked over the Xbox period anyway.
Contrary to listening to those who say “It was bad out there I only drove in 1st and second”
Roy, some nitwit gave this advice on the radio. He claimed that 1st gear is technically and officially the “high gear”. Where did he get that from ? Even if he is right he has totally confused the troops and led to the majority of drivers to be put on the wrong footing – or rather, driving in the wrong gear!
I have not been stopped by the snow at all, nor did I put a scratch on my taxi.
What pee’ed me off was the awful behaviour of others, even a taxi who insisted on tailgating me all the way down from Clonskeagh to the Beacon on very icy roads, I tipped my brakes several times to warn this eejit (black or dark Octavia; nothing happened but no thanks to you, moron !) off but he kept sitting on my rear bumper until we took different turns.
The way I kept goling was:
1. Drive slowly and keep ample distance,
2. When moving off, use the minimum power that will get you going without stalling the engine and shift up as soon as possible.
Our authorities have set the timing of many traffic lights so that they give only a brief period of green and a short flash of amber before going red again. As it takes time to get the car going on icy roads, there is a temptation to try and move off as fast as you can. This will get you nowhere: Your wheels will spin and the car will stay where it is. All you achieve is a patch of compacted ice under your wheels, just where you and other cars will try to move off. If your wheels spin: lift your foot off the accelerator.
3. Be very careful if your car is rear wheel driven as the back end will want to break out very, very quickly.
4. Once moving, drive as steady as possible at a low speed in the highest gear, 3rd or 4th if your car will take it.
In an automatic car: Lift your foot off the accelerator and let the auto shift up as soon as possible.
5. Keep AMPLE distance, avoid any sudden braking or steering.
6. Look and plan ahead. Slow down in good time, well before a junction. Brake using the gears rather than the wheel brakes. Select a lower speed hold in an auto.
7. Plan your route and avoid hills. Also try to stay clear of inclines if you can avoid them. Explain to your fare that you will have to take a longer route if necessary.
8. If you must brake: Do it very, very gently. In the extreme conditions we have recently encountered you cannot rely on the ABS. It is a help, but no more than that.
If your car has no ABS: brake by repeatedly tapping your brake pedal. On no account allow the wheels to lock.
Guys, I am aware that the great majority of us, taxi drivers are professionals and to those I apologise for being so pedantic.
But unfortunately there are some a…..oles who do not seem to know this, taxi drivers (too many !) among them. My “tips” are for them, not for the majority of you who already know this and managed to keep temselves safe and get their fares to their destination in spite of ice and snow !
And, PS: I grew up on the continent and have seen and been through far worse. A little tip for heavy snow conditions:
Bring with you: a. A nylon rope, a clothes line is good. b. a sharp knife and c. a compressor running on the cigar lighter.
If you get stuck in heavy snow: (Put on a warm jacket and wear your high vis jacket). Partly deflate the tyres of the driven wheels Thread the clothes line through the holes in the rims and around the tyres (in one piece or sections, up to you). Make sure the rope is clear of the brakes and suspension, is tight and then tie the knots securely. Cut the rope to size with the sharp knife. Reflate the tyres. You now have a set of “poor man’s snow chains”. McYver, eat your heart out !
It won’t last but a very short distance on tarmac but in snow it may just do the trick and give you the extra grip you need to get going again.
Happy motoring
What they really should have said was a lower revolution gear as opposed to a lower gear.
As in when in first the revs will be higher than in 3rd/4th, thus when in a “lower gear” the car wont wheel spin as often.
Sorry for the tailgating Flybynite but you were hardly moving, your passengers could’ve walked quicker.
Well, that is your take. I doubt they would have managed 30 kph walking on snow and ice. And be honest, if anything happens or you hit an unexpected patch of black ice at low speed all you get is a few dents and a red face. Your vehicle when moving has a certain amount of kinetic energy. It increases exponentially with increasing speed. So will the damage to your car (AND IT’S OCCUPANTS).
If you tailgate on icy roads you leave yourself wide open to a lawsuit if things go wrong. Have you ever thought of what a “compo” payout will do to your insurance premium ?
So I am sorry my friend, I still think you were at least irresponsible !
@Flybynite. Apology accepted. My NCB is protected.